techtips

TYPE OF TOOL	REASON WHY YOU NEED IT
8,10,12,13,14 Spanners / Sockets	Most quads are fitted with bolts that fit these size spanners. If aftermarket accessories have been fitted then you stand a chance of having size 13 nuts & bolts that have also been used to secure items
Small Shifting Spanner 0-19mm	This will help you with the odd size nuts or bolts for which you do not have spanners or sockets. Especially usefull if your wheel nuts come loose and you need to tighten them.
Tyre Weld	This items has a couple of uses. Firstly it can be a quick fix for a puncture. Secondly it holds enough air to inflate a couple of tyres and lastly it has enough pressure to seat a bead back onto a rim. Just remember to take out the valve before using the tyre weld.
Tubeless Puncture Kit	Any tubeless puncture kit is a must as this is the easiest way to fix a puncture when you are out on the trail.
Spare Master Link	Most quads use a 520 O or X ring chains. Here it is advisable to have at least 2 links as chains that break can also have damaged links which need to be removed.
Spark Plug	Although it is handy to have an extra plug, 4 stroke quads usually don't have problems unless they use racing plugs which can have problems at times. Two stroke quads generally need to carry an extra plug as they also have a tendency to fade unexpectedly.
Utility Knife / Leatherman	These multifunctional tools are a must as they have most of the tools in one unit that could help you with almost any situation.


1. Identify where the punctures are. Any punctures larger than your small finger will most probably need to be fixed with plugs.	2. Pull the thorn out to see how big it is and whether you are able to get it out properly.	3. Use a pawl to clean the hole and open it slightly so that you are able to push the rubber plug in easilier.	4. Take a black rubber patch and cut it into 2 - 4mm strips. The different size strips will be used for bigger or smaller holes.

5. Pull the rubber strip through the Genuine Innovations tubeless repair tool and smear with some rubber solution.	6. Take the tool and push it into the hole where the thorn was. Make sure that you do not push the entire strip right through. The two ends of the strip should be touching.	7. Take a sharp blade and trim the two ends off flush with the tyre. Now take your pawl and gently work the edges of the plug into the tyre.	8. You now have a tyre which is as good as new. If you are someone that rides in the bush alot then having a tyre full of normal vehicle plugs can really look untidy. This is nice way of keeping the tire tidy.

Very often I have heard of LTZ 400's stretching their cam chains a bit quicker then what the other bikes do. So I have had a look at the system and found that you could do a small modification to save you some money and time.

NOTE: I do not take responsibility for this modification and any number of factors may come about that it will not work or that it may lead to other problems. (Small Disclaimer).

Observation:
Although the cam chain may stretch, it is less then a 1-2mm. The largest amount of slackness is brought about by the cam chain guide. If you have a look at the foot on the tension it has a rounded edge which is app 2mm deep. With tension provided it pushes on the cam chain guide to give tension to the chain. What then happens is as the engine heats up so do the properties of the plastic chain guide. The tensioner then starts pressing a recess into the guide. This recess may be up to 2mm deep. So with the chain stretching, the tensioner pressing a recess into the guide you are loosing tension.

Modification:
Develop a new foot for the tensioner to gain back the distance lost on the chain and the guide. The existing foot has the following dimensions: it is 13.5mm wide and 12.5mm long (including the round edge). The new foot dimensions are: 15mm wide and 15mm long with a flat foot thereby giving greater surface area on the existing chain guide. The new foot was engineered from EN19 steel and case hardened. This might be a bit overkill.

Procedure:
Remove the chain tensioner on the right side of the engine. Press out the pin that holds the foot onto the tensioner rack. Replace the old foot with the new foot. Insert the pin to keep the foot in place. Unscrew the bolt at the back of the tensioner to release the spring. Push the tensioner rack back into the tensioner guide. Now replace the tensioner unit back into the engine. Push the spring and the bolt together into the unit and tighten the bolt. The chain should now be under tension again.

tensioner.JPG (18942 bytes)

Result:
Start your engine and listen if the nocking noise has disappeared. You should be able to ride your quad for a couple of extra km's. If you find that the better results did not hold for at least 3 rides, I would suggest that you change the cam chain as to manufacturer specifications. If you do not get better results immediately then you must replace the chain and the guide immediately.

ANOTHER NOTE:
This solution is not specified by the manufacturers. This solution may cause you to loose any warranty that you may have. I do not take any responsiblity for damage to engines with regards to this procedure.
Warning - This modification is done at your own risk! And if you choose that I do the modification the rsik is still yours and you will be informed accordingly.

Lets hear what you guys think!